By Stephen Gundle, Clino T. Castelli (auth.)
ISBN-10: 0230510450
ISBN-13: 9780230510456
ISBN-10: 1349407577
ISBN-13: 9781349407576
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Sample text
58). Mirrored glass proliferated in stores: it was inserted into showcases and shelving, and was suspended on walls and columns. The impact of mirrors was largely illusory; they seemed to increase the floor space; they concealed the less attractive parts of the stores; and they amplified ‘the allure of goods’ by ‘showing them from every angle’ in glass showcases. They also refracted light, enhancing the glitter that literally dazzled shoppers. Achieving the twinkle of Nirvana was no longer a chance effect but a deliberate technique.
In the modern city 34 The Glamour System wealth, prestige, class and the perceptions of these qualities were matters of social import in which everyone participated. Commodities needed an aura because large-scale manufacturing had stripped goods of the intrinsic value that derived from their having been made by human skill and effort. The commodity was precisely an object that was conceived and fabricated in relation to a set of market relationships. Its value derived from the mediations of the market that stood between increasingly impersonal producers and dream-laden consumers.
This led to Whiteley being accused of ‘turning ordinary suburban women into Jezebels’. Just as stores blended elite and mass culture, ‘mirroring the world of Ascot and the amusement park’, so they blended classes, sexes and lifestyles (Rappaport 2000: 108, 166). France conserved a leading role in the fabrication of glamour due to its special monopoly on a certain type of fantasy. With censorship being very relaxed compared to London or Vienna, Parisian theatre acquired an image of daring and pleasure that appealed and tantalised.
The Glamour System by Stephen Gundle, Clino T. Castelli (auth.)
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